Tilicho peak Expedition - (7,134m)
Tilicho Peak Climbing:
The Peak Tilicho situated at the north of Manang in Annapurna Region. This peak is towers at the height of 7134m in altitude. Tilicho Peak’s northeast ridge covered with snow majestically towers the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, while the hidden pro- kingdom of Mustang lies just few miles to the north. Maurice Herzog reported Tilicho in 1950 during his exploration of Annapurna. French climber Emanuel Schmutz climbed peak Tilicho for the first time via Northwest Shoulder, which reaches the shores of Lake Tilicho. This is a standard climbing route of the peak with the Base Camp (4800m) located on the Northwest end of the lake.Tilicho Peak Climbing is a technical climb and not so easy one. We follow the classic route of Annapurna circuit trekking up to Manang and then proceed towards Tilicho Lake to approach the mountain. There will be three high camp established in the approach to the summit of Peak Tilicho. The climb is very straightforward from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (5800m) on a shelf below the Northwest shoulder along on 50deg mixed rock and ice 590m route. Camp 2 (6200m) is located on the shoulder and accessed via 55deg 450 m snowfields. The shoulder itself is also a 55deg 800m snowfield with a low objective danger and very low exposure due to very large width of the shoulder. Climbing Tilicho Peak with fixed ropes is required on 40 degrees slope to reach Camp II at 6300m Summit approached with climbing on some stretches of 60 degrees slope.
A standard access to the Base Camp of Tilicho Peak is through Besishahar via Marsyangdi valley within 10 days trek and affording an excellent acclimatization. After the Tilicho Peak climb one can fly-out from Humde, only one day hike from the Tilicho Base Camp or from Jomsom with 3 days hike via Thorong La pass (5416m). Tilicho Base camp is also accessible from Kali Gandaki valley through difficult Mesokanto Pass (5300m). The view from Tilicho is breathtaking on Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau and down to the deepest valley in the world the Kali Gandaki valley.
There are two ways to reach up to Base Camp of Peak Tilicho. The Peak expedition starts up with a drive Besishahar, followed by several days trekking to Base Camp as well as another way is can fly from Pokhara to Jomsom and start further. However, we choose the first idea as this allows enough time for acclimatization and less difficulties for taking all the logistics. The views on the routes are breath taking; anything that can surpass your imagination. What you see is Tilicho Peak and the azure and peaceful Tilicho Lake below. It is a glacial lake and unfriendly to marine life. People say they often find marine fossils (shells) that probably support the fact that the Himalayas were once beneath the sea.
We set up the base camp for Tilicho Peak Climbing near the lake some of days will be rest celebrating the Puja by Buddhist priest. Tilicho stands as a daunting task above the camp, which is on a moraine. From the Tilicho base camp (around 4400m) we set out for our final goal – Tilicho 7,134m as seen from near the Base Camp.
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airporty & transfer to hotel(1350m)
Day 02-03:Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.
Day 04:Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (823m.) which takes about six hours over night in lodge.
Day 05:Trek from Beshi shahar to Bahundanda (1305m), which takes about five hours. Over night in lodge.
Day 06:Trek from Bahundanda to Chyamche (1430m.) which takes about six hours.
Day 07:Trek from Chyamche (1410m.) to Dharapani (1860m.) and it takes about five hours.
Day 08:Trek from Dharapani to Chame (2670m.) which takes about five and half-hours.
Day 09:Trek from Chame to Pisang (3100m.), which takes about five hours.
Day 10:Trek from Pisang to Manang (3440m.) and it takes about five and half hours.
Day 11:Rest day at Manang for acclimatization and hang in and around town.
Day 12:Trek from Manang to Khangsar (3734m), which takes about five hours over night in lodge.
Day 13:Trek from Khangsar to Besi Khola(3955m) which takes about five hours and you may camp here.
Day 14:Trek from Besi Khola to Tilicho Base Camp (4150m) which takes about five hours and you may prepare base camp and over night here.
Day15-30:Climbing Period (TilichoSummit 7135m)
Day 31:Preparation to returning(Clean Base Camp) and then trek to Khangsara(3734m) which takes about five hours.
Day 32:Trek from Khangsara to Thorong Phedi (4420m.) which takes about six and half hours.
Day 33:Trek from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong La (5416m) Pass and it takes about seven hours.
Day 34:Trek from Muktinath to Jomsom via Kagbeni (2895 m.) and it takes about five hours.
Day 35:Early in the morning Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara, which takes about 20 minutes. Then Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours. You can also fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu, which takes about 25 minute's .Overnight at Hotel
Day 36:Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.
Day 37:Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities
Elevation: 7,134m (23,406ft)
Location: Nepal/Annapurna Region
Coordinates: 28°41′04″ N 83°48′16″ E
First Ascent: Emanuel Schmutz (French), 1979
Climbing Season: Late spring and autumn
Expd duration: 32 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 9 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group